Planting Info

Generally, we recommend green side up. Sorry, we couldn’t resist that one. More sophisticated horticultural humor.

Seriously, your pendulous plant is really no different than other woody plants in your garden. Your planting hole should be at least 6 inches wider than the pot on all sides. Loosen soil on the sides of the hole as well as the sides of the root ball for lateral root growth. In fact, loosen the entire root ball because you don't want the roots to continue growing in the same direction as they have been restricted by the pot. Mix in a handful of triple super phosphate which also encourages good, strong root growth. (Can you tell that the roots are key to a great plant?) Then plant the root ball at the same depth or slightly higher level as the original soil level in the pot.  Water thoroughly at planting time, and as needed until established. (I recommend at least twice a week in normal weather conditions, more often when there's no rainfall) Additionally, go easy on the mulch, 1-2” is plenty and don't mound it against the trunk. Some mulch will help retain moisture, but too much is a problem because it provides a safe haven for bad stuff and the roots need to breath. Avoid late summer fertilizer so the plant will ‘harden off’ before freezing temperatures arrive. We also recommend not pruning for 8 weeks (around August) prior to the first frost in fall. Specific cultural requirements regarding sun, shade, etc. are included with each plant description. Please read the ‘To stake or not to stake’ section of the site. This will help with cultural questions specific to weeping plants.

Bare Root Care

As for the care of your bare-root tree after it arrives, it’s really pretty simple.  The tree will be packed in moist, shredded newspaper and will be fine if you don’t get to it the day it arrives.  However, you’ll need to unpack it within a day or two and plant it in a pot.  Basically just select a one- or three-gallon size pot (usually about a 6-10 inch diameter pot will do just fine), fill it halfway with good quality potting soil, add a 10-10-10 balanced fertilizer (slow release is best, like Osmocote) and place the tree in it and fill the rest of the way with potting soil. To be sure and not plant it too deep, try to identify where the soil line was originally and use that as a guide. Tamp the soil down well as you go and water it thoroughly to get the air pockets out. 

I would recommend keeping it in the pot for at least 2-3 months to let the roots grow stronger, but 1 year is ideal if you can wait that long.  Once you decide to plant it in the ground, toss a handful of triple-super-phosphate in the planting hole before you place the tree in, which will help the roots grow once again.  Stake it as you see fit.

 To Stake or Not to Stake; That is the Question

We are often asked about staking pendulous plants; and here we will attempt to further muddy the water.

Pendulous plants propagated by rooted cuttings are generally staked to accentuate the vertical growth. This gives them a layered, natural look while gaining some height. Otherwise they may become spreading woody, groundcovers, (which could be perfectly acceptable in a given garden.)

Pendulous plants propagated by grafting are either grafted low near the soil level or grafted on a ‘standard’; typically anywhere from 18-36” above the soil level. Low grafts are usually staked as young plants for 1-3 years or more. This will give the plant a layered, tiered look. The gardener has a choice with plants grafted on a standard. One can allow them to weep from the chosen grafted height; or continue to emphasize the vertical growth above the graft by staking further. The plant will not grow taller between the soil level and the graft. A 24" graft will remain 24” above the ground. Vertical growth will be from the upward, arching of the stems as the plant ages and not from extension of the plant between the soil level and the graft.

If pressed, our preference is a rooted cutting or low grafted plant staked for a couple of years or so. This avoids the ‘umbrella’ look; and at least to us looks more ‘natural’. However, the adage: ‘beauty is in the eye of the beholder’; certainly applies here. Do what you like. No one else’s opinion really matters.

 Pruning your Pendulous Plant

There are generally two schools of thought on pruning woody plants. One is to do nothing. Let sleeping dogs lie. Live and let live, to each his/her own, Yin and Yang, etc. You get the picture. The other is to prune as needed to get the desired result, whatever that may be. For those who follow the latter path, we suggest pruning your pendulous plant by removing any crossing limbs in the center of the plant; and pruning outward branches to facilitate more branching and a fuller plant. And, certainly remove any dead or otherwise suspicious branches as necessary. Also, it is best to avoid pruning in the late summer by allowing at leat 8 weeks between last pruning and first frost.